A Modernists’ Silver Coast Diaries

POSTCARDS FROM…

French-born Elodie lived in London, Switzerland & Tunisia before finally landing in Portugal, so perhaps it’s safe to say that the instinct to travel runs through her blood. It was just the global pandemic began to tremor through Northern Europe that she decided to escape her native city Paris - where she was working in brand events - to find a new life in Portugal, seeking refuge amongst the elemental energy & beach-side surf culture of Atlantic beaches.

With a change in mindset gathered from her new surroundings, Elodie set to work on turning one of her greatest passions into a new career - writing. Remote working & a newly found freedom allowed her to explore her adoptive country & indulge her interest in design & architecture, and a particular penchant for Mid-century Modernism. With a wishlist of cultural gems, she travels often, capturing the design, architecture and daily life of Portugal in a way that feels authentic, unpretentious, curious & cool. Here she reveals some of her favourite finds & hangouts with a postcard from the Silver Coast, just shy of an hour’s North of Lisbon.

Postcards from…is a series of love letters to Portugal & a collection of insider guides from our Design Escapes muses; locals & visitors that travel with their eyes open, led always by a quiet & authentic beauty.

 

All images by Elodie

Tell us about you Elodie, what inspires you?

I would say a lot of my taste is centred around & inspired by the modernist & brutalist eras - from the 1950’s to the 1970’s - especially, from a design perspective, when it comes to architecture. It started before I moved here as in my native France there are some beautiful examples of Modernism, I visited Hotel Les Cabanettes this summer which has become one of my favourite 20th-century spots to stay designed by the architect Armand Pellier. Since moving to Portugal, this passion has taken on new life as there are some incredible gems across the country that seemingly satisfy my penchant, so I’m ticking them off slowly! The Modernist Architecture movement in Faro for example follows the path of Oscar Niemeyer, Le Corbusier & Franck Lloyd Wright, three of my favourite architects. I’m also on a mission to visit every possible realisation by Álvaro Siza Viera & have an obscure obsession for chairs - mainly from the 70s. I’ve started a collection & this is the most frequent subject of my photographs when I’m travelling.

What’s your favourite way to travel?

I am a big fan of old cars, especially vans. Vintage ones are regularly stopping near my house so I have started a ‘Pimp my ride Portugal’ series on my Instagram.

Let’s talk a day on the Silver Coast with you…

Where are we waking up?

I am definitely a beach person, so I would say anywhere with a sea view! This is one of the things I love the most about my current house on the Silver Coast which is facing the ocean. My dear friend has the most beautiful guesthouse - Onda Nova Villa - in the village of São Bernadino. It’s really authentic, independent, small & well-kept secret. There’s also a new hotel that just opened nearby called Aethos Ericeira which I recently took a little ‘staycation’ at - the interiors blend retro-surf-cool with a calming minimalism. It’s located right on one of the most dramatic cliffs in the area so the rooms are blessed with stunning vistas of the ocean from bed.

How are we spending the morning?

Ideally, surfing, on an easy spot like Baleal. One of the main reasons I moved to Portugal was to improve my surfing skills, even though I am still very new in the discipline!

It's lunchtime, where are we going?

We’ll head into the town for lunch at The Capsule Café in Ericeira, a fine neo-bistro with local, seasonal food & a large selection of natural wines. The restaurant was also designed by the very talented Atelier Réalité. A new spot with spectacular sea views has just opened, also in Ericeira, called Balagan. The interiors are curious & character-filled, not to mention the delicious Levantine food which is to die for.

Wonderful. What are our afternoon plans?

We’ll wander around the town, dipping into some of my favourite independent boutiques like Saints at Sea. If we’re feeling indulgent, we’ll head to Quinta de Sant’Ana near Mafra for a winetasting on their organic vineyards - there’s a flower farm here too which I love for picking up uncommon blooms & fresh flowers for the week.

Where are we going for sunset...?

Without any doubt… we’re going to the beach down my road, between Praia de Santa Cruz & Praia de Santa Rita. We can either take a bottle of wine to toast in the evening or set off on a hike between each of the beaches. The sunsets in the West are some of the most beautiful in the world - I truly believe that! 

How about dinner...talk us through it.

Noah Beach House in Santa Cruz which has a surf-vibe restaurant with the most delicious grilled fish & stunning sunset views. This place is really our local and I love it there in winter even more with the cosy fireplace.

After dark?

Cosying into a chair with a view & listening to an episode of the Building Pictures podcast by Sara Nunes, who has been interviewing Portuguese architects for years. Perhaps we’ll also flick through a lifestyle or interior design magazine before bed (Apartamento, Open House, Milk) from Under the Cover, one of my favourite stores in Lisbon.

It’s home time, where are we going?

Santa Cruz, a tiny coastal town in the north of Lisbon mainly known by locals for its surf competitions. I love it in summer when it’s busy & when the striped tents are out. It reminds me of Martin Parr’s photographs. In winter, everything slows down & takes a mystical twist. I can walk for hours on the cliffs without meeting anyone, feeling completely in the wild.

My favourite room in my house is…

My living room, because it’s full of natural light & it’s where I spend most of my days. I’ve set up an office area by the window, facing my bookshelf & I am surrounded by decorative objects & memories that spark joy! Watching the sunset colour palette over the ocean from my bedroom & the birds poetically gliding in the sky. It might sound silly but it’s my never-ending, simple pleasure.

My dream holiday home would be…

Probably something designed by Studio Gameiro, Atelier Data, or Par Plataforma. Ideally, it would be an isolated, minimalist & bright house facing the ocean, completely self-sufficient energy-wise & built with local materials, respectful of the environment. See you there!