Paço da Gloria
MINHO / GUESTHOUSE / TRIED & TESTED
Passing through a moss-covered granite gate decorated with opulent merlons, a path shaded by grand old cork oaks leads to Paço da Gloria, a grand baroque manor that appears out of the mist at the centre of a fairytale forest, just an hour North of Porto. This is a house that has played the eccentric protagonist in a myriad of tales, whimsical dreams & extravagant endeavours since the 1700s, more about which can be found in The Journal. Today, the current owners (a Portuguese family with ample artistic flair) have pulled back the curtains once more to be a part of the story’s newest chapter, one that creates seeks refuge at the confluence of creative minds in the heart of the Minho.
A stay on the grounds at Paço da Gloria takes place across the garden from the gothic palace in a stone folly. Within it are two cosy studio dwellings for guests to indulge in the dreams of those who travelled through this place before them. A seven-bedroom house, ‘Meia Lua’ is laid out along a curved cloister framed by poignant arches & original ironwork. A unique collection of contemporary art sits, framed against the dark canvas of granite; photography by Carolina Pimenta & canvas’ by Andre Butze, Chris Succo & Richie Culver, who was also commissioned to design Paço’s new ‘coat of arms’.
Walking through the wild gardens, a granite tank & swimming pool hangs over the Lima river valley & the rural parish of Arcos de Valdeve below. Each is decorated with figures & pinnacles, flanked by abundant flowers planted by the previous green-fingered custodians of the house over the years - an impressive gardeners guild of rose, camellia, rhododendron & magnolia. By the lawn, a path leads to a grove of laurel, poplar, lemon & orange trees, winding through irregular steps to a tennis court & a shallow lake for wild swimming. At the right time of year, the pond is awash with pink petals from the cherry blossoms that stand, statuesque at the water's edge - conjuring further dreams for guests to ponder & revel in, within the grounds of this mysteriously magical palace that is Paço da Gloria.
Room Service
Location: Arcos de Valdevez, Minho.
Price: On Request.
Sleeps: Two independent studios sleep two people in each and have their own small kitchens and dining spaces. The ‘Meia Lua’ house sleeps 14 guests in seven double or twin bedrooms. The studios can be rented individually, or together with Meia Lua to create a house for 18.
Highlights: It’s the wild and wonderful story of Paço da Gloria that exudes its charm and creates a feeling of enchantment and nostalgia. Read the full story on The Journal.
Designed by various visionaries throughout two centuries. Francisco de Araújo é Amorim, in the 1700s, who imagined a grand Baroque estate. In the early 20th century, the Count of Santa Eulália was inspired by the Gothic Revival, and in the 1930s, Peter Pitt Milward graced the house with influences from the Decorative Arts movement. Today it is the Illing family who bring their own soul to a space that has touched so many.
Favourite room: The studios are quaint for two, looking out onto the cloud forest beyond. The main house, Meia Lua, however, is a playground for those who wish to live convivially to create or gather for a celebration.
Services: The houses are self-catering, however, chefs are available on request, along with house-keeping. A friendly general manager, Francisca, who is also a long-time friend of the family is around - along with her three, equally friendly pups - to greet guests and assist during their stay.
Photography by Design Escapes Portugal.
The Neighbourhood: Twenty minutes away is an ancient enclave of Portugal and the country’s ‘oldest town’ - Ponte de Lima. It is said that the Kingdom of Portugal emerged from here in 1125 by order of Queen Teresa de León, daughter of King Alfonso VI. Today, pretty townhouses and ‘confeiterias’ line the riverfront and crumbling bridge. Wander the historical streets and eat prego’s with the locals at Tasca das Fodinhas.
Things to know: Paço da Gloria is still in a soft opening phase so only the two studios are available to rent until April when ‘Meia Lua’ opens up too.
The Map
Paço da Gloria is located in the Minho region of Northern Portugal. Fly to Porto from most international airports & rent a car, the house is just 45 minutes away.